how to sew neck facing

Neckline Finishes and Interfacings

Neckline finishing techniques are crucial for garment construction, ensuring a clean, professional finish and durability. Several methods exist, each suited to different fabric types and garment styles.

Facing Application Techniques

Preparing the Facing

The facing, typically cut from the same fabric as the garment or a contrasting fabric, should be interfaced for added stability. Interface selection depends on the garment fabric's weight and drape. Accurate cutting and precise notching are vital for a smooth, well-fitting finish.

Attaching the Facing

The facing is typically sewn to the neckline seam allowance, with careful attention paid to aligning notches and maintaining a consistent seam allowance. Techniques vary depending on the garment construction, but generally involve stitching in the seam allowance, then turning and pressing the facing to the inside of the garment.

Finishing Techniques

  • Hand-Stitching: Provides an invisible finish, ideal for delicate fabrics and high-end garments. A slipstitch or blind stitch is commonly used.
  • Machine Stitching: Offers a faster, more durable finish, suitable for most fabrics. A close, neat stitch is essential.
  • Edgestitching: Creates a visible, decorative stitch along the facing edge. This technique adds structure and a tailored appearance.

Alternative Neckline Finishes

Bias Binding

A versatile technique using bias-cut fabric strips to encase the raw neckline edge. Suitable for curved necklines and various fabric weights.

Neckbands

A separate strip of fabric, typically cut on the straight grain, that is applied to the neckline. Provides a clean, professional finish, especially for simpler necklines.

Fabric and Interfacing Considerations

Fabric weight, drape, and type influence the choice of finishing method and interfacing. Heavier fabrics may require a firmer interfacing and a more robust stitching technique. Delicate fabrics may necessitate hand-stitching and a lighter interfacing.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Uneven neckline edges, puckering, and visible stitching are common issues. Careful preparation, precise cutting, appropriate interfacing, and the correct sewing technique can mitigate these problems.